THE LAST COMES FIRST
When designing a new shoe, you first need to create a wooden shape to build the shoe around, also called a last. Roccamore lasts are mainly created by one of the best last factories in Tuscany, founded in 1966. First the shape is cut from a wooden block by hand, and then adjusted with a clay-like type of material for smaller alternations. For every adjustment, a prototype is made and tested on Frederikke’s feet, until the shape is perfect. Every millimetre makes a difference and usually it takes 5-6 prototypes to nail the right fit. Once this happens, they shape is then mapped as a 3D drawing and stamped in a very durable kind of plastic, which still today is the only material strong enough to sustain the pressure from a shoe production.
Making a new last and getting the fit right is a difficult and time consuming process, which we only start few times a year. Instead, we try to make 4-6 models on each shape, before starting on a new one.